Goodbye Mexico! I will miss you!

"Yenni! I´ve been looking for you all morning."

"Johnny, hey I lost my camera last night," I said looking like I had lost my puppy.

"I know. My brother told me.  That sucks.  Was it when we were at beach last night? When we built the fire?"

"I think so..all I remember is taking a picture of you by the fire and throwing the camera back into my bag, but I scoured the beach for it all morning.  I even asked all the hotels by there to see if someone might have seen it and so far nothing."

"Well, I will make sure to keep an eye out for it and let the others know as well.  Hopefully it will turn up and we can mail it to you!" He says smiling.

"That would be beautiful." I say cheering up a bit.

"I have something to show you."  Johnny hands me a banana that I hungrily accept.  He guides me out of the reception area of the hostel.  "I want you to see what me and some friends have been working on."

We walk down the sandy road and pass the peaceful dogs who have dug into the sand on the shady part of the street to keep cool.  We pass the colorful shops and the drivers in their golf carts.  I look over at Johnny and think to myself: God, am I really leaving paradise?   I tune into the sound of the ocean and think about how much I will miss this place; the relaxed vibe everyone has, watching the fisherman bring in their bounty every morning, drinking fresh carrot juice and never looking at clocks.  I look at Johnny again.  I will miss my new friends.

Johnny leads me to a vacant terrain half all dirt and half all wild vegetation.  Some women are filling wheel barrels with the weeds and vegetation and some teenagers are working the soil separating the plants with old hardened coconut shells as decor.

"We started a community garden," he said proudly.

I was wondering why he hadn´t let me throw away our banana peels and insisted on carrying them.  He held them up before dropping them into a pile, "compost." He announced smiling.

"We are trying to educate everyone about it.  So the kids can learn to plant fruit, vegetables and to recycle."

A tall woman brisks past me. "What types of seeds are those? We have to make sure they are not Monsanto seeds.  We are boycotting, remember that documentary I showed you?"  She says to one of the girls who was digging into the soil.

"So you´re in charge of this place?" I asked, approaching her with a smile. 

"Actually, I am just learning.  My expertise are animals.  I run the animal sanctuary next door - have you seen it?"

She leads me through the fence.  "I started the garden for the community and it is absolutely dependent on their partcicipation and involvement.  Without them, it will fail."  I stopped to pet the raccoon through the fence.  It grabbed my ring and held onto my thumb.  "They like silver," she said.

It was getting late and I couldn´t afford to miss the last boat off the island.  I thanked her and said goodbye returning to Johnny.  "We´ll keep in touch," I promised.

"Of course we will and I will keep an eye out for your camera," he replied.  I kissed him goodbye and hugged him hard. 

I walked back to my hostel excited for the development of the island.  I thought about what I would contribute if I were to come back again someday.

I boarded the boat, missing my camera and part of my heart.  I headed back to solid ground.

Who Falls in Love with her Masseuse in Paradise?

I do! I do! 

My dearest lovelies,
I have been trying so hard to stay away from boys this whole trip.  You have no idea what a challenge it has been, however it has been rewarding.  I have been writing and dedicating much time to myself.  I have also been pampering myself..like getting massages for instance.

I was eating at a place that Angel (I will write more about him on another occasion) took me to on the beach.  It was there that I saw him.  A beautiful man with long dark curly hair and dark skin all dressed in white comes and joins us.  "This is Johnny," says Angel.  Jenny and Johnny...already I love it.  Umm...speak, Jen. Stop staring, good Lord, you are embarassing yourself!

"So what do you do here on the island?" I ask.
"I´m the masseuse.  My cabaña is right over there."

I am totally getting a massage later.

"That´s awesome, I just got out of my yoga class right now.  It was Ashtanga..I hadn´t realized how sore my back was from carrying my backpack and purse with me everywhere for the past few weeks."

"Well, you should stop by if you´d like."

Done.  Totally done.

I went at sunset after tanning the whole day on the beach, hanging out with Angel.  We started talking after the massage and he says, "I feel such a connection with you, ever since I met you earlier.  Do you want to go grab dinner?"

YES!  I totally would love to! Oh my God!

Okay, so not only was my last blog about wanting to live here and finding a super sweet apartment here for cheap so that I could be an inspired writer and do yoga and eat fresh fruit and fish every single day, but now there is a hot boy who does yoga on the beach each morning and massage therapy that feels a connection with me!?!?  I am so screwed.

Ugh...Chicago...what do  you offer me?  I am so torn.  I would have to get on that boat tomorrow at 1p.m. to catch my flight Monday morning.  I am not quite sure how that is going to happen...

Off to see Johnny for dinner. 

My Route



Cuba...so close...yet so far away...



Paradise vs. Home

I am in paradise.

There are no cars here.  The roads are made of sand and the closest thing to cars you see are little golf carts.  All the dogs run around here free yet they look very taken care of with collars and at healthy weights.  People care for their animals here.  Everyone is so friendly and relaxed.

Me...I am all decked out with seashell bracelets adorning each ankle and a golden tan.  My neck line has a new inhabitant in form of a gorgeous seashell necklace with coral stones.  I wear a huge sunhat and wander everywhere barefoot.  I eat fresh fruit and seafood everyday and as such my hair has a healthy shine from all the fish oil.  My black hair is getting longer and I feel it caressing my bare back often.  I haven´t even looked at makeup for days.   I feel so healthy, more healthy than I´ve felt in a long time.

I would be lying to you if I didn´t tell you that I went to check out an apartment here this morning.  For $166 USD a month I could live here comfortably just three blocks from the most beautiful beach.

My mind is racing with ideas as to how to stay like I could give tarot card readings on the beach to tourists and my buddy who is house-sitting for me in Chicago can sublease my fully furnished apartment and I could do my taxes online and see if I can get some work as a freelance writer.  I could make friends with the fisherman here and charm them into feeding me if I do the cooking.  I could give shoulder massages on the beach or maybe start some other type of business here.

Immediately my future is flashing before my eyes.  Do I really want to go back to Chicago? It is cold there and the people don´t graciously greet you good morning as you walk down the street, instead they avoid your gaze, perfectly intent on their direction.  Chicago where the days come and go so quickly that you forget the seasons.  When its winter you wonder why you live there and then when it is summer you remember why you do but forget the horrid winter.  You just cant win.

I can see my life here.  They have a yoga class at 9a.m. every morning, Kundalini, my favorite style.  I can see myself eating fresh fruit all day and writing all night inspired by the ocean and waves.  I can feel myself in this life.

I think better about my purpose, and as much as I wish it was, it isn´t tucked away on a tiny island.  It is among my people.  I know I have a lot of work to do.

So here.  Now.  Heading to the beach.  Chicago, I don´t miss you yet but I´ll see you soon.

The Fall and Rise of Spain

"Are you from Argentina, you speak Spanish so well but I can`t place your accent," says a dark Spaniard to me.

I smile, "No, Chicago but I´ve been speaking all my life."

We start chatting on the beach casually.  The sun is setting over the ocean and he says that this is paradise.  How can I possibly disagree?

"Mexico is so beautiful, Spain gave up such a beautiful country and handed it to the Mexicans and look at what a disaster they have managed to make of it."

Jen´s Brain: Oh, no he did not just say that to me...
Jen´s Mouth: As I recall, Spain didn´t exactly hand it over.  There were wars fought and Mexico won.  Also, they stole the land from its original inhabitants so the possession of Mexico by Spain, in my opinion was a mere occupation.
Him: Well, the Maya and Aztec were constantly fighting as well.  The way I see it you are either the conquistador or conquested.  So do you have a boyfriend?
Jen´s Brain: FUCK!  Of course, I should have known that this was why he pulled me away to chat.  Ugh, I am so naive sometimes...I never know.  I can never tell...
Jen´s Mouth: No.
Him: Oh, such a pretty girl like you, not having a boyfriend.  Why is that?
Jen´s Brain: Shit, do I have to justify this question?  Pretty maybe but I´m thinking a more appropriate word might be lucky at the moment.
Him: I don´t have a girlfriend.
Jen´s Brain: Can I go now?  I thought we were discussing conquests...well I guess this is kinda the same thing.
Him: So, Yenni, how do you like your men?  What is your type?
Jen´s Brain: Not you.
Jen´s Mouth: I don´t know...I guess the most important thing is that they know themselves.
Him: Yes, that is good.  I like women who know themselves too.
Jen´s Brain: Okay...exit line, Jen, exit line!!
Jen´s Mouth: You know I am just so exhausted.  I need to go to bed.  It has been a really long day.
Him: (looking disappointed) Oh, it´s still quite early.  You should hang out more.  What are you up to tomorrow.  Maybe we can go to the beach together or something.
Jen´s Brain:  Nope.
Jen´s Mouth: (smile) Goodnight.

Since this exchange the gentleman in question has been following me around the hostel, trying to talk to me and I have been trying to look incredibly busy, as incredibly busy as one can look on an island and at a hostel with hammocks at every corner.  I´ve been avoiding him like the plague the Spaniards brought to these lands.  The time has come for me to get off this island. 

The Spaniards have however, redeemed themselves in the form of an adorable, intelligent young woman named Eli.  She is a writer, artist and traveler and we spent a whole night talking about life, spirituality, travelling and global social issues.  We exchanged pictures of artwork and per her lovely recommendation I am leaving Isla Mujeres and going to Isla Holbox, a much less visited and touristed island.  It is a fisherman`s port and sounds like some lovely quiet for this writer to get some work done.

As a sidenote my father would not forgive me if I didn´t mention my own Spanish blood, of which I am composed of half.  A quarter from Galecia and a quarter from Islas Canarias.

I am Mexican; I am also American. I am both.

Last night I made some friends.  This Aussie girl named Tash.  Tash is 29 years old.  She lives a rather transient lifestyle.  She will go from place to place and stop in spots where she could make money working in the hospitality industry in whatever country she happens to be in, saves up quite a bit and then moves on and travels for months at a time again.  Last country she worked in was Canada and on her itinerary next is Oaxaca, Mexico; Bali, Indonesia (for a family reunion); then back home to Australia.

Matt is from Israel and I swear he has the most beautiful eyes you´ve ever seen.  He used to be a dancer and you could tell when you do yoga with him.  He´s from Israel and just got done with his mandatory military service there and is travelling a bit before going to medical school.  He is a darling and very sweet.

There are others...Amanda, the Londoner with a slight Cockney accent is hilarious.  Then there´s the cute, calm and reserved German boy whose name I don´t remember.  There´s Simon from Sweden who has red hair.  It´s almost like the U.N. in here.  Just listening to the lodge in the morning I hear a myriad of accents and languages: French, German, Israeli, Italian...  There are many people here from Spain, Argentina, Venezuela as well.

The crowd is primarily younger in their 20s and 30s but there are quite a few older couples here too.  Its so diverse and tolerant execept for one thing...

The lodge is circular and all around there are flags from different countries: India, Cuba, Jamaica, Canada, Mexico...all countries in North America are represented except for one.

"Whoa why are all the seagulls flying over here?" asks Tash as we lay out on the beach.
"Probably some stupid American is feeding them." Replies Isha.
"Hey, guys, um...I´m an American..." I say laughing hysterically.
"Oh shit, sorry!" They reply.

It´s no biggie.  I get their sentiment.  I understand. Furthermore I´m on an island right outside of Cancun.  Cancun...the land where Americans come and drink until sunrise leaving their vomit on the streets for the Mexican people to clean it up.  Cancun, the land where Americans stay in one hotel the whole time and never leave.  Cancun...the land where Americans would rather swim in the pool than the ocean.  Cancun, the land where Americans come to wave around their dollars without even learning to say "thank you" or "please" in Spanish.

"You don´t seem American.  They generally stick out here like a sore thumb." Says Amanda.  "I am here and therefore I am Mexican when I am on this land.  I´m also half Cuban but have not been there yet." I reply. 

It´s funny, I don´t know who I have more in common with or whose company I prefer here: the women sitting outside of their artensenia shops or these new traveling friends I have made.  I don´t reply to the Mexican men on the street who speak to me in English pretending I don´t understand.  I am in Mexico, speak to me in Spanish...I am not one of them, I think to myself.

Yet, I am very American.  I am a patriot. My eyes gleam with pride when I start to describe Chicago, my home, my city. I love and respect our President and would be honored to serve him, if only in these moments, as a better ambassador and representative of our nation abroad.

Quick blog fact: This post is the blog´s 100th post. I read somewhere in the blogosphere that a blog isn´t considered serious until it at least has 100 posts. Here´s to being a serious blogger.

The only way I can describe this place is INSANE and AWESOME!

Day One in Isla Mujeres and I have already called to change my flight from a week to when I was originally set to come back home, taken laundry to get done, had a yoga class, went grocery shopping for myself, hung out at the beach and it is barely 7p.m.  Oh yeah, and my sleep last night was minimal at best on a cold bus for six hours.  I barely arrived to the island as the sun was rising.

So this place is the real backpacking deal.  For what is equilvalent to $10.00 USD a night you get breakfast, a bed, free salsa lessons, yoga and whatever else is on the itinerary for the evening.  Tonight, Monday, there are two parties going on.  There are bike rentals, scuba diving, snorkeling etc.

Given, the bed you get isn't necessarily ideal but it is clean.  I am sharing it with five other bunkmates (it feels so weird to say that).  Today as I was settling in, one of my bunkmates asked me my plans for travel and where I had been.  I asked him what was next on his itinerary and he replied that this was his current destination.  I thought that was the most awesome answer. 

This is my current destination and it is insane.  My yoga teacher showed up late and apologized for being partially drunk for class today.  The layout of this place is insane.  It's a labyrinth of  dorms, gardens, outdoor patios for drum circles, beach volleyball, drinking, hanging out, hammocks, yoga and massages.  I will have so many stories. 

Quick closing fact: Isla Mujeres is the first place in the republic of Mexico to receive the Sun's rays every morning.

Photos from the journey

My first breakfast in Merida, Huevos Montuñados

Zocalo in Merida

My poetry students in Maxcanú, Yucatan

He was laughing so hard as his grandmother tickled him on the bus.  I couldn´t resist getting this shot.  He has a gorgeous smile.

This is the life.  Santa Elena, Yucatan

Uxmal, Yucatan

Sr. Armando Mellenes and his bici-taxi.  He and I spoke for an hour as I waited for the bus on the side of the road.  His daughter is a grandmother at 30 years old and he works on the corn fields in Yucatan.  He was very curious about Chicago and we spoke at length about education in Mexico.

Campeche City, Campeche

My travel partner, Gibran.

At a tiny seaside stop.  Best fish you`ve ever tried.

Water lily and lily pad Gibran gave to me.  I think it was a gift for finally making peace with the ocean that day.

I was not this happy when awoken by the Howler Monkeys a few hours after this was taken.

Gibran and I swam in this lagoon at midnight and we tried to get to the island (visible barely in this picture) in the middle of the night but turned back after getting 3/4s of the way because the wind was blowing the current strongly and pulling us in an undesirable direction.  We ended up swimming back to the dock as fast as we could.  Awesome midnight adventure.  The lagoon looks so much more innocent and calm in the morning light.

One of the many wonders of the jungle.

Peace. More freckles and maybe a little sunburn.

Last night.

Howler Monkeys, Camping in the Jungle and Learning to Drive in Mexico

I woke up to the sound of howler monkeys in the middle of the night.  If you´ve never heard them you could confuse them with roaring jaguars or something even more frightful.

"Gibran, despiertate...escucha," I said to the dark of the tent.  I was in the middle of the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve.  In other words, I was camping in a tent in the middle of the jungle.

The air smells like jungle sweat in the most delicious way.  It´s a humid mixture of moisture and this nut-like scent.  The birds chirp loudly and there is a constant insect buzz.  There is not a moment that you look straight ahead into the jungle and you don´t see something moving.  Insects abound and all species of birds as well, from vultures to sparrows to super noisy ones that I don´t recognize.  The squirrels here are a deep red and there are other small mammals rustling through the leaves at all hours.

I guess this is the part where I back up a bit and explain who Gibran is and what he and I are doing in the middle of the jungle sleeping in a tent.

Gibran and I met in Oaxaca City last April.  I was alone walking through the Zocalo and saw him drawing.  We started talking and for the whole week I was there, he and I were inseparable.  He was studying art there.  I forgot he had school and he did too, I think.

He heard I was coming to Mexico again and so we agreed to meet in Campeche City.  He arrived after a 15 hour bus ride.  I proceeded to somehow convince him that we should leave Campeche City, rent a car and then head to Calakmul.  He had no idea what he was in for.

First of all, most cars here are stick shift.  I only know how to drive automatic (although I doubt that will be the case for long) so Gibran has had to drive the whole way, letting me practice on some open roads.

Second of all, we are camping in the middle of the jungle getting woken up by the horrid sounds of howler monkeys (all my idea, by the way).

My whole reason for wanting to go to Calakmul is because it isn´t just a natural preserve.  Deep inside the jungle there exists one of the most amazing Mayan ruins.  Calakmul is rumored to be one of the largest ancient Mayan cities with an estimated 60,000 habitants at its peak.  It has the tallest Mayan pyramid and more stellae than any other ancient Mayan site. Atop of this pyramid you can see its rival Tikal in the distance (with binoculars).  In addition it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

More adventures to come in the coming days when I have a moment to get to a computer but until then remember that:  La vida es un placer.  Life is a pleasure. Besitos!

Day 7: The Jungle

I am staying in some bungalows in the middle of the jungle along the Ruta Puuc.  I came in yesterday in the afternoon and fell asleep in the hammock outside and awoke to about twenty mosquito bites and darkness through the trees while the sounds of exotic birds and insects that I didn´t recognize buzzed around me.

Angry at myself for wasting time sleeping during daylight and for not bringing any bug spray or a flashlight I decided not to waste a day and go into the town even though it was far.  I walked a kilometer or more into the small town.  The night road was a little unsettling with the unfamiliar noises and the unfamiliar trees looming over me.  Luckily it´s almost a full moon.  That was enough to provide sufficient light to town.  I had no idea where I was going really because I´m not the type of girl who is into looking at maps and what not so I relied on my ears, which I thought were leading me to the center of town but low and behold they led me to a high school marching band.  Ridiculous as I felt, in a tiny non-tourist town watching twelve students play drums with nothing else around I asked for directions.

I got to the church and met another couple looking completely out of place.  They were from Belgium.  The man´s spanish was decent but I helped him get the next day´s bus schedule anyway.  He asked me if I was travelling alone.  I told him yes.  He then asked: isn´t it a bit....lonely?

I hadn´t really thought about it that way...

I pretty much have to hitchhike everywhere...cept I have to slip people some pesos for the ride.  There isn´t very good public transportation and thank God I speak the language.  I don´t quite know if I´d manage here without it.

Uxmal today.  Campeche tomorrow.  More pictures soon.

A Girl’s Backpacking Guide

Okay, I leave tomorrow.  I’m less anxious, more active today, although still very sick.  I figure this cold should be gone in a couple of days so I’m not postponing my leave date.

As I’m packing, I thought it’d be wise to share some backpacking secrets especially for the young women that plan to take backpacking trips at some point.

1. Get a knife.  I have a gorgeous Swiss Army knife that I take with me on all of my trips.  Not only is it useful for protection but I use it all the time.  I use it to cut the fresh mangoes I buy at local markets.  I use it to cut the thread on the hem of my skirt that’s come undone.  I sleep with it under my pillow at hostels where I’m sharing rooms sometimes (hey you never know).  Anyway, it just comes in handy, plus you feel empowered to protect yourself and walk around with less fear, which in itself, helps prevent any sticky situations allowing you more confidence. 
2. Walk around like you know where you’re going, no matter how much you might stick out in the crowds.  Be confident.  Don’t be afraid to smile at strangers and enjoy the sights but don’t walk around like a deer in headlights.  That “lost” look attracts not only people coming to sell you things but also people that might want to take advantage of you.
3. Pack a solid first aid kit.  Include bandages, hydro cortisone cream, disinfecting cream etc.  Anything you would need to take care of yourself after cuts or rashes caused by allergic reactions.
4. Don’t drink alcohol.  I know it seems counter-intuitive considering you are on vacation and want to have a good time but this isn’t your neighborhood pub where everyone knows you and you can stumble on home safe and sound afterwards.  This is another country.  Be responsible.  If you must drink stick to beer and keep an eye on it at all times.  I suggest not drinking.  You’re in a new country…why dull your senses? 
5. Be open to new experiences.  So you've never seen women breast feed in public – don’t gawk.  See it for what it is and move on.  So you hate the way the men look at you in this country.  Don’t over analyze it, accept it and move on.  Talk to strangers.  Make new friends.  Practice the language.  Learn to say hello and thank you and please and nice to meet you. 
6. You are not here to change the world.  You’re here to witness it and stand in awe of it.  Maybe you have more formal education than those in the country that you are visiting.  Maybe you think you can teach them about feminism and change aspects of their culture with your “enlightened” perspective.  Newsflash: there’s a reason you are visiting this country and it’s not to change the very culture you’re attracted to viewing firsthand.   Leave it at home.  Sit and observe without judgment and walk with humility.  You may find that your experience with a new culture teaches you more than you expected. 
7. When in Rome, do as the Romans.  If it is uncommon for women to visit taverns alone in this country, then don’t.  It doesn't matter that it's entirely appropriate back at home.  If it is inappropriate for you to shake hands as a greeting then kiss everyone hello. One time I was in a rural part of Mexico quite homesick and I went to a bar to have a beer and write in my journal.  I was dirty, wearing awful clothing I’d been travelling in for weeks and every man stared at me and kept harassing me.  There were no women in the bar.  The men kept trying to talk to me and I was not having it.  I later found out that going into a bar as a woman alone in this part of town meant that you were a prostitute looking for clients.  Oops! 

Have fun.  Meet new people.  Explore history and culture.   Smile a lot.  Watch your back.  Carry a knife.  Be safe.